Welcome to the Penny Inn Sew Along, with Ellen – Part Four! Please DO join in the Facebook group Sew Along running in conjunction HERE! I know everyone is eager to get on with Part Four, our final instalment – WOOHOO how exciting! …..OK… over to you Ellen…..
Oh my… how Gorgeous, are some of the Penny Inn’s that have been finished already! Everyone should be so proud of themselves. I apologise to those that have been waiting for the last section, sometimes life events just get in the road. Please remember this Picture Tutorial is meant to be used in conjunction with the pattern, all measurements and instructions are in your pattern… this is meant to be just a helping tool. So without any more delay, here is Section 4.
We finished the last section with all the pieces ready to be assembled…
Before starting, I like to wrap the Flip Lock in some scrap fabric and plastic or just glad wrap. This will help to not scratch or be scratched by anything on your machine.
So we are up to No. 16 in the pattern. For this we will need the Zip Pocket B and the Body Shell. If your right handed you need the one with the zip pull on the left. Left hander will need the zip pull on the right. With your body shell in front of you and the flap on the left, fit the zip pocket to the left side of the middle section A that has the Tab protruding from it.
Now you need to fold the body that’s on the right under…
And the body that’s on the left down on top of it…
May need to squish it a little to get in close, using a zipper foot works best …. Sew across the bottom of the pocket only.
Now unclip the top of the pocket and fold down out of the road and clip in place.
Retrieve your A section assembly and fit to the front part of the wallet, lining up both sides and tab and front edges.
Top Stitch the Card A section onto the Tab section, only across the top.
Now unclip your zip pocket B and fold back up and into place, aligning the sides with the card slots/Tab section. Folding the Body out of the way again …. Baste sides (only) together … may need to squish the body to get down the bottom. Don’t worry about the raw edges as they will be enclosed later.
It gets quite thick from now on, you may wish to use a new needle, and a larger size maybe.
Now move to the end where the ID window is, make sure all layers are lined up as accurately as possible. Flip it over and top stitch ( from the outside) all the layers together across that edge only, at 3mm and again at 6mm. I would flip and check the 3mm line before doing the 6mm. Possibly may need a zipper foot to do the 6mm line past the snap.
Now the sides, following the pattern on where to put a marker pin to show how far down the sides you need to top stitch. Two good pictures of this on page 53 and 54. When ready go ahead and top stitch in a 3mm line and a 6 mm line.
Not much left now. We’re up to Part 17 …. Welts , last zipper pocket and card slots B2.
Retrieve you Card pockets B2 and on the back draw in a line following the pattern instructions. With the end of the welts marked as back, line it up to the line. Using wonder tape or pins fix in place with the wrong side of the welts on top of the wrong side of B2. Baste together, as per the picture at the top of page 55. Folding the welts over the edges and around to the other side, try on the body for width … trim the edge of card slots if needed before continuing. Do another row of basting for strength. This next bit can be done later but I do it now as it helps me to do a neater job later. Flip the card slots to face up and fold the welts over the edge neatly and covering the basting, top stitch 6mm from edge. Repeat on other edge of card slots B2. Check it fits the body.
Moving on …. with the wallet in front of you and the Card Slots B1 (OR maybe you used the Supplementary section) facing you, line up the welts edge that are marked “front” with the raw edge of B1.
Right side of the welts should be against the right side of the card slots.
Do a 1 cm seam, going all the way to the bottom squishing the base if need be to get to the bottom. Do a second row of basting and I trim 1 or 2 mm off especially if you’re using a thick fabric.
Flip the welts up and over so that the welts are now showing right sides out… Woohoo getting closer!
Wrap the welts around the end of the Card slots B1, it may be thick.
Using a hammer to thin out the thickness can help or you could also stitch in the ditch. Topstitch the welts in place. Again, squishing the base if you need to, to get to the bottom.
Only one Zipper pocket left to fit in, following pattern instructions, trim and re-baste. Move zipper pull to middle. Find and mark the middle of the welt. Insert your pocket into the wallet with zipper facing to the front. Centre the pocket in the fold you marked on the welts and fold welt around the end of the pocket. Pulling it away from the body and do a 1 cm seam. Repeat on the other side, may have to pull a little bit harder to get the second side out to stitch down. Make sure you secure the top and bottom of both ends with back stitching to reduce the risk of them coming undone from use.
Last part of the sewing… yippee I yippee yippee o…lol
Attaching the Card slots B2 to the back wall of the wallet. I previously top stitched my welt to the card slots at 6mm, it will make it easier to wrangle it into position.
The base is meant to be square, the bottom corner should fit down into the square and the sides even with the body,
Sew in by top stitch at 3mm and squishing the base again to get into the bottom. Now top stitch at 6mm over the previous stitching you did when attaching the welts.
I had sewn mine in and realised I should of changed colours as my strap band is navy. So unpicked and restitched in white up to the pin on both lines and then changed to navy on the back and white on the top, and just did a square at the top of the pocket.
OK that’s it for the sewing. However I left my tab snap and front of my flip lock till the end.
Fold the wallet and press and steam in place as best you can. Work out placement of the snap and attach.
For the outer section of the flip lock, there is a great tutorial on emmalinebags.com . What I did was make a template of the hole, transfer it to the flap centred top to bottom and side to side. Then use a button hole cutter to cut around it, make sure it will fit. Adjust if need be and put the front on …add some glue .. put the back on and put in the screws. Before tightening completely though I turn to the front and adjust lock to make sure it’s in the correct position, and then turn back and tighten the screws.
TAH DAH!!!!! You’re done!! Woohoo….. lol Now for a couple of my favourite photos.
I hope you’ve all enjoyed my Tutorial. This is only my second attempt at doing a tutorial and this is an Extraordinary Pattern. I took over 200 photos and whittled it down to about 115, give or take a few. I can’t begin to imagine how many hours it took for Christine to design and test and remake and test and remake, and write instructions and test this pattern. Then to use it herself to test its use and durability. Then to send out to testers for them to test. I am in awe of such a brilliant design and sewing mind.
Till next time hooroo from Australia.
You can find Part One HERE, Part Two HERE, Part Three A HERE, Part Three B HERE or grab the pattern HERE
Thank you soooo much for doing this for us Ellen…..your Penny Inn looks absolutely STUNNING and I LOVE your fabric choices, so fresh!! ….and thank you for your lovely comments…..Yes it was many months in the design and testing process! …..and now my head is too big to get out the door….hehehee…..
Hmmmmw which one should be our next sew along??
Thank you both do much! Make the Epiphany the next one please!
Your welcome Wendy..I hope it helps!!!
Ellen – what is the sewn basted seam to the welts? Need to know in inches please
Sorry I missed that question, but I did get it on Facebook 1cm is 3/8″.. Hope your going ok.
The Penny Inn is my favorite pattern!
The Savannah is my favourite but I would love to sew up a few other of your bags…including the new Epiphany 🙂
Awwww I am pleased to hear that Cathy!
Thanks for stopping by Denny……..we might even have a sew along for the Epiphany sometime in the not toooo distant future! 🙂
Hi! I just wanted to say thank you!! Thanks to Ellen for the sew along and thanks to Chris for this WONDERFUL pattern!! It’s a complex pattern but so well designed and so well explained!! To me, it’s like magic how you, designers, come up with all the pattern pieces, measurements and construction steps to sew a bag or whatever. I’m just a beginner but I could follow the instructions without any problems 🙂 I just finished sewing it and I’m so thrilled with my new purse!! My end result is not as perfect as yours but anyway, I’m very happy with it 🙂
I have some other of your patterns and I’m looking forward to getting on with them as soon as I can 🙂
Awwww thank you so much for all you lovely comments! You have truly made my day! I am always thrilled when I hear a beginner has managed to make one of my more advanced designs….that is totally AWESOME and a credit to you! I would LOVE to see some pics! I hope you will pop some in our Flickr pool!