Welcome to the first post in our new series of bag making tips, brought to you by Dianna Leckner! I am so happy to be able to present these tips to you here on the Blog.
Dianna is an awesome sewist and avid bag maker with loads of wisdom to share! She previously shared her tutorial on Creating Fabric Using Colour Weaving, here on the blog and it has been a big hit! Dianna is going to share some great advice and tips with us as time permits PLUS seek out some of YOUR secrets to share with us too! You can read more about that below in Dianna’s post….
Dianna’s first post is all about achieving the perfect top-stitching and i must say hers is definitely that!! Over to you Dianna:-
———————————————————–
Let’s Talk Top-stitching!
I have been asked by Christine to write a series of posts for her blog that will incorporate sewing tips, bright ideas, and best practices that can be used in bag making. She said she thought I had a lot of tricks up my sleeve, and that she’d like me to share them on her blog. I’ll tell you the truth – I don’t have so very many, but I’m willing to bet that her blog readers and her ChrisW Designs Pattern Group members on Facebook have a bajillion of them. My mission will be to compile them and to write a monthly post so that everyone can benefit! More about that idea later.
Chris gave me a specific assignment for this first post, so we’re going to get to it! She gets lots of questions via email, and one of the most common is about the dreaded subject of top-stitching. Some people are afraid of it; others do it grudgingly when it’s required but kind of hope no-one notices it; still others just plunge in without a thought as to how it might look when it’s done.
I am a firm believer that if you’re going to put visible stitches on the surface of your project, you ought to own it and make those stitches look awesome! This post is intended to help people improve their skills and I’ll also show you my favorite tool for applying beautiful top-stitching that you’ll be proud to show off!
If you’re a member of ChrisWDesigns Pattern Facebook group, you may already know that my favorite pattern from the ChrisW Designs line is the Genevieve messenger bag. This pattern incorporates quite a bit of top-stitching, as do many of her other patterns. Here’s a picture of the slip pockets that went inside a Genevieve bag I just finished.
So what’s the secret to creating this kind of professional looking, super straight, perfectly placed top-stitching? An underappreciated little jewel called an edge-stitch foot. Sometimes called a blind-hem foot, or an edge-joining foot, this versatile accessory has a blade that is centered on a wide foot that will allow you to either center or offset your needle and create precisely placed stitches you can be proud of. Here’s mine.
Okay, I admit, there are a couple of other secrets you need to know to be able to do this, and we’re going to talk about them, too. One is a fading pen or other fabric marking pen. My favorite is the very affordable FriXion Pen by Pilot. The marks made with a FriXion pen are erasable, and in most cases, a quick pass with a hot iron will remove all traces of the ink. Perfect for top-stitching!
The other secret is a specific stitch I use especially for this application. My sewing machine, a Bernina, offers a stitch called the “Triple Straight Stitch.” This stitch sews two stitches forward and one stitch back, (think “forward-forward-back, forward-forward-back”) effectively tripling the amount of thread applied for each stitch. This stitch is typically used for top-stitching jeans or other heavy fabrics, but if your machine offers it, you might not even know it unless you’re looking for it. The triple stitch is totally optional for regular top-stitching, though, and you can still achieve good results just using a regular straight stitch. Bear in mind that it takes a little getting used to the forward-forward-back rhythm generated by the motion of the foot on the fabric, but you get used to it. Practice makes perfect!
So there’s one more secret – in addition to the edge-stitch foot, the FriXion pen, and the triple stitch, I like to use a high sheen 40 wt. embroidery thread for most top-stitching, but I also use a good quality polyester sewing thread when that high sheen look isn’t appropriate.
So how does all this stuff work together to create these awesome little stitches? Here’s the scoop!
Most top-stitching is applied along the edge of your fabric, and the edge-stitch foot is a superstar when it comes to this. You will simply lower your presser foot so that the edge of the fabric runs along the center blade and then offset your needle either left or right. In all of the pictures in this post, when I used a left or right needle position, that offset was 3 mm. I also set my stitch length to 3.5. Secure your stitch as usual and then watch the front edge of the blade as you sew, guiding your fabric so that the blade always touches the edge of the fabric. With practice, you will be sewing your top-stitched lines at high speed without a hitch.
The Genevieve pattern often suggests adding a second line of top-stitching inside the first as a means to strengthen the seam or the join, but you want it to look pretty, too. To do that, go back to the beginning of your first line and lower your presser foot so that the blade rests on the first line of stitching. Stitch your second line, watching the front edge of the blade again, ensuring that it stays centered on your first line of stitching. This is also the method I use when top-stitching a strap. We will address pivoting at corners a little later in the post.
Sometimes, as with the division of the slip pockets in the Genevieve, you will stitch on a line you’ve drawn on your project. For the Genevieve slip pockets, I draw lines with my FriXion pen one inch apart as indicated in the pattern instructions. Then I center my needle and place the blade on the line, sewing over the top of the line itself.
Remember to watch the front edge of the blade and not your needle as you stitch. To make the second lines in these pocket divisions I pivot at the top of the drawn line, make one stitch, pivot again, and then sew all the way back down to the bottom of the pocket. On that second pass, I don’t rely on my blade – instead, I keep the second line straight by watching the first line pass under a specific spot on the presser foot. Instead, you may want to draw another line to follow until you get used to this.
Another common use for top-stitching in bag making is when sewing around a zipper opening. Most of you probably use a zipper foot for this job, but I like to use my edge-stitch foot because, at least with the Bernina, it’s exactly the perfect width. Take a look.
This time I offset my needle to the right by the same 3 mm and stitched right around the zipper keeping one half of the foot inside the zipper opening while sewing down each long edge. Beautiful results!
A word about pivoting when using the “triple straight stitch.” I mentioned the “forward-forward-back” motion of the foot on the fabric earlier. This creates a little challenge when it’s time to pivot. When I get close to the pivot point, (about an inch away) I slow way down and begin to watch the needle as it moves “forward-forward-back.” I accompany the motion of the needle with a silent mantra in my head as it progresses – “forward-forward-back, forward-forward-back.” I want to pivot when the needle is at the right spot in its rhythm, or else I will end up with a stitch out of place, or with a stitch with thin coverage. Remember this – if you pivot your needle at the right point in the rhythm, it will give you perfect results.
But when is that point? Watch the motion of the needle and . . .
“. . . Forward-forward-back, forward-PIVOT-forward-back.” How do you know your needle will be down at the right place for the pivot? You’re going to have to trust me on that. I promise that it works like a charm, and it works every time!
Not all of you will own an edge-stitch foot, and not all brands offer one for sale to fit every machine. I have also used my reverse pattern foot, aka zig-zag foot, with good results, using the incised line in the center of the foot to line up with either the edge of the fabric, or with a drawn line. It also tends to work better than the edge-stitch foot when I’m sewing around pronounced curves, since keeping your eye on the edge-stitch foot’s blade on a curve makes your stitches out of alignment.
As for me, I also use my edge-stitch foot for decorative stitching and for stitching in the ditch. I even use it for basting when stitching 2 to 5 mm from the edge of my fabric. It’s an indispensable tool and helps me produce professional results that people notice and comment on!
I said earlier that I would be doing a monthly post for Chris’s blog, and that I’m going to shamelessly use Chris’s readers and Facebook group members as a resource – so here’s your assignment! The next post is going to be about tools we use that are not designed for sewing, but which you’ve adapted for use when sewing bags. I bet you have ideas by the ton. I use ½” foam core board when cutting out patterns, and I use large spring clamps. Can you guess how I use them?
You’ll have to wait for the next post to find out my secrets, but I need to hear about yours now! I have created a special email address just for gathering your ideas for this blog. It’s dilaughingblog@gmail.com, and I need to hear about the tools you use when you’re making bags that aren’t designed for sewing.
- What is the tool? (pictures would be great!)
- What is it used for in its real life?
- How do you use it for bag making?
- Why do you think others should use it the way you do?
If I use your idea in the next post I’d like to credit you with the idea, so please give me as much or as little information as you’d like to about yourself. I’d like to know at least your first name and where you’re from. I’m excited to learn about what you’re doing and how it can help the rest of us! Thanks for reading!
——————————————————————————————–
WOW….I must say those tips are AWESOME! Thank you so much Dianna….I am sure I am not alone in saying that I can’t wait to see what you do with those clamps! I have some in my stash….which I use for clamping photographic backgrounds…..I never gave it a though to use them in my sewing room! Interesting….. 🙂
Happy Top-stitching!
Thank you for this wonderful blog. I have a Bernina 750qe which I bought just 3 months ago. I had no idea there was a triple straight stitch or how my edge stitch foot could help with my top stitching. I will definitely be using these awesome tips on my next project.
I love this post! I have a new Bernina and have just been learning all about my awesome feet for the machine. I already love my edge stitch foot and now I know how to use it even better!
You just changed my bag making life, I thank you both very much… may I ask one question? What needle do you use with your embroidery thread? An embroidery needle? Once again, WOW! and thank you.
Yes, Sass, I do use an embroidery needle (75/11) most of the time, but I have also used quilting needles with good results. I don’t use a top-stitching needle, though, because the eye is so large. I am so pleased to hear that you believe this post has helped you in your bag making!
How exciting to hear that you will be using these tips! I hope you have great results!
Thank you, Pat! My Bernina is new also and I feel like my horizons expanded so much after I got it! My dad was a sewing machine dealer as I was growing up, so I got my first machine at the age of 10, but this is my first really fancy-schmancy machine and I love it!
Thank you for your great tips. wonderful!!!!!!
Excellent blog, I wish I had a triple stitch machine though, now I want one !!!!!
Thank you Dianna,
I have a Brother and just looked up the manual – it has a triple stitch stretch – I will try it later and see if that is a forward, forward, back. Hope so. I also bought a load of extra ‘feet’ which I’m always a bit wary (scared) of using eg the walking foot , but that’s another story. I will try the edge stitching foot. I wonder if twin needle would do the same job? Never tried that either. 🙂
Thanks again.
I’m new to bag making and went from reusable grocery bags to crossbody and beach/lakeside bags and having so many issues with my current machines. My Singer Heavy Duty doesn’t quite handle the layers and my Kenmore 835 ( given to me from my mom) is just tired.
Please, if allowed, any recommendations on a machine?
Hi Paula, if money allows, and they sell them where you are, I can highly recommend the Juki Sumato TL-2300; I am based in the UK, so models may differ overseas! It is a domestic machine with the technology and grunt of an industrial, without the big seperate motor; it will sit on your sewing desk as your normal domestic does. It’s solidly make, and handles many layers of denim or think leather with ease! It uses industrial needles, has a knee lift, and a micro lift (an adjustment that makes it easier to sew over thick layers). I’ve had mine 7 months (a 50th birthday present to myself!) and don’t know how I managed before! Only draw back is that it only does straight stitch, so you will still need a back up machine if you need to use other stitches, and it cost GBP £1,700 approx. Personally don’t rate Singer at all these days; if it is pre 2006 it should be ok, but Singer sold the name, and they are now (cheaply) made in China, and have plastic gears. Hope this helps!
I love your tips, Dianna. One question – when using embroidery thread in topstitching, what thread do you use in the bobbin? I’m going to take some fabric, draw lines all over it (similar to you picture of the blue fabric above, and practice. This way I can practice your tips. Thanks!
I can hardly wait to try these tips, especially the triple stitch and zipper top stitching! You hit this one out of the park, and I’m eagerly awaiting your next post. Thanks for this.
Dianna, thank you for your ‘Top Stitching’ blog! I’ve been sewing since I was a kid, but just recently ventured into the World of ‘Bag Making’ . . . so many different techniques and sewing skills required for bag making! I look forward to trying your ‘Top Stitching’ tips . . . . and for your monthly sewing tips, bright ideas, and best practices that can be used in bag making! As my daddy would always say . . “if it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing right”! Hmm, foam board and spring clamps, I’m pondering that!
Great tips! I do use my blind hem foot too on my (older) Bernina, which is different looking than yours. I have used my triple stitch on other things, but not on top-stitching a bag, so that’s great. I use polyester embroidery thread when quilting too, but now I will try top-stitching with that thread too, as I love the look and have oodles of colors. Thanks for the tips Dianna! Looking forward to the other tips you have up your sleeve.
Welcome to the blog!! I really enjoyed this post, and the photos of the topstitching are just beautiful (and they inspire hope, LOL). Your expertise shines through–thank you for being willing to share it with us.
I would love to know if you have any suggestions for topstitching on a canvas or canvas-weave fabric. When topstitching on it, I can work as meticulously as I humanly can to be absolutely straight, but the weave seems to cause the stitching to “wobble”. Are there any cures for that? I use a lot of that type of fabric in bag making, and I would love to know how to improve the look of the topstitching.
I’m looking forward to your future posts!
Thank you! I just bought a Juki tl 2010Q for bag making. I was having trouble with skip stitches using my Babylock. I’m glad I read this because I never thought of using both machines lol my babylock has,all the fun stitches where my Juki is straight stitch only. Would you possibly know why my thread breaks frequently on my Juki? I’m thinking I’m using the wrong thread it’s overlock thread 😕I’m going to try embroidery thread see if that works. I can only use 2 types of needles on tge Juki so it’s time to bring out the babylock!
I know the basics about why thread breaks, but I know nothing about the Juki at all. :{ Have you talked to your dealer? I wish you weren’t limited as to the needles you can use because I would surely try a needle with a bigger eye. It may help to bring the thread weight down, which may reduce the friction on it so it would be less likely to break. Good luck to you!
Oh, no! Now I’m going to have to try top-stitching on canvas to experiment with what you’re talking about and see if I can reproduce it. I would be interested to know if Christine has any ideas about this topic.
I used an older basic Bernina (an 801 Sport) for many years and the blind-stitch foot was numbered 016. It was much smaller in size and the blade was made differently. I did use it for top-stitching, but my old machine did not have the advantage of that wonderful triple straight stitch. I think you’ll love the embroidery thread for top-stitching. I typically use polyester, but I have also used rayon because it has a higher sheen. I don’t think it’s as durable, though, so I don’t use it too much. Thanks for your comments!
Thank you for your comments, Betty! I dabbled in bag making for years, before taking it much more seriously in the last four or five years. I, too have been sewing since I was a child and can’t imagine my life without it!
Thank you, Patti!
Great question! I use the same thread in the bobbin as I do in the needle. Sometimes they are different colors, but they are always the same thread. I like to use Isacord polyester, but I also like to use Sulky rayon thread for applications that don’t require the higher degree durability offered by the polyester.
That blue fabric is the gusset from one of the Genevieve bags I made recently. The vertical lines were finished with the triple stitch, but the angled lines were done with a decorative stitch. The edge-stitch foot is ideal for decorative stitching that runs in straight lines. I love it!
Hi, Caroline! I hope your triple stitch stretch works, but I fear the stitches may run in tiny angles rather than straight, which is a pretty typical stitch used to sew knits that require seams to stretch. I’d love to hear if it works or not. I would give my eye teeth to have a large number of different feet that fit my machine! Someday! I would just grab some scraps and start experimenting.
As for the twin needle, I think that would be a brilliant idea for applications where the back side of the work wouldn’t show. Let me know how that works for you!
The good news is that you can still produce good looking top-stitching without that triple stitch, and if you’re using an edge-stitch foot, you can rest assured that your lines will be consistently straight and you can be proud of them!
Thank you, Wendy! I appreciate your kind words!
Thank you Christine for your wonderful patterns and also for asking Dianna to write this series for us to do justice to your beautiful bag patterns. Dianna, this series is going to be awesome! I loved your first post. I have a Bernina 440QE which I’ve had for about 7yrs which includes the edge foot but never thought to use it for the topstitching. Great tip. Also the triple stitch makes a lovely finish to topstiching. I need to get myself a Frixon pen now. Thanks again ladies and I look forward to the next post. 🙂
Dianna, What wonderful tips. Thank you! I had been using the triple stitch for pockets but hadn’t thought about using it for topstitching (Duh!!!). my Brother has that same stitch although it’s pattern is forward-back-forward, so I always pivot at the end of the second forward. I think they are probably both the same, it’s just how I counted it. I also use my edge stitch foot al lot, but hadn’t used it quite the same way you suggested with the zipper topstitching.
Good question! You may need to experiment with the type of needle and thread combinations to see if that makes a difference to the result?
nope. I didn’t know when to use that 3 step thing. Yes, my machine has it, never tried it out.. lol. Now I will tomorrow to watch it work. very nice. I use those clips that are like that for my quilting to hold the fabric taught and to hold my bags when I need something bigger then a little red clip. and feet, I never explored them. it’s good to get them out of the box and know when and how.. very nice read. See you next month.
Hi Krista,
Try lengthening your stitch. I had the same problem until I increased the length by one or two increments. Good luck
HOLY MOLY, I just finished a bag and used my Janome blind hem foot for topstitching and WOW.. thanks for the best tip ever
I am very excited about this new blog. I have made 2 Genevieve bags using the your weaving technique and absolutely love it. I am one of those very fearful topstitch sewers. I am anxious to use your ideas to take my bag making skills up a notch. Thank you.
I love hearing that these tips have inspired you!
Remember that if you have any items in the sewing room that you’ve adapted for use for bag making, email me your ideas at dilaughingblog@gmail.com!
Thanks, Judith! I do love doing the zipper installations with the edge stitch foot. The part of the foot that rides over the top of the zipper teeth seems to help hold everything together as I stitch. Thank you for your kind words!
Thanks, Cheryl! I hope you explore all of your feet and find ways to use them. I also hope one of them is an edge-stitch foot so you can experiment with using that in your bag making!
Oh, my! I’d love to see a picture of your finished project! If you’ve posted it online, you may be able to include a link in a comment here.
And you’re entirely welcome! I remember how amazed I was the first time I ever used the edge-stitch foot for top-stitching. Then when I started using the triple stitch too, I about fell over. The difference for my finished look was amazing!
Oh! You have no idea how excited I am to hear that you’ve used the color weaving technique!!! I would be so excited to see pictures of the bags you did. Would you be willing to post them to the ChrisWDesigns Facebook page? I haven’t had anyone share pictures of their finished projects with me yet. If you would rather not post them publicly, I would be thrilled if you attached them to an email and sent them to my inbox at dilaughingblog@gmail.com.
As for the top-stitching, I think you’ll be surprised by how great your projects will look after you’ve practiced this technique a little bit. It really didn’t take long after I decided to do it this way that I gained enough confidence to just speed along like I’d been doing it all my life. That amazing little foot made ALL the difference!
Thanks for that marvellous tip. I have just topstitched around 9 cleaning cloths and what a breeze it was. Look forward to next months tip
Your blog is off to a good start for me! I don’t have an edge foot for my Janome 625E but but do have a blind hem foot that I just tried using your method and it was brilliant – 100% more accurate than my previous top stitching efforts! Unfortunately, my machine only has the 3 stitch stretch stitch, which doesn’t look too bad if I use a very small stitch length, otherwise I can see that the stitches are slightly slanted and no good for top stitching. Even without that stitch, I know that my top stitching will improve dramatically now that I have read your blog! One question for you: am I right in thinking that the blind hem foot won’t be any good for sewing around zippers? Looking forward to reading future tips on your blog.
Just posted to your blog and the date showed as Wednesday, Feb. 3. Scared me until I realised that Australia is a day ahead of Canada. I thought I had forgotten to wish my husband happy anniversary! Phew!
Pauline, I appreciate your comments, and I’m so happy to hear that you were pleased with the results you got using your blind hem foot! Frankly, I think your blind hem foot might work for zipper application as well.
Usually, the difference between a blind hem foot and an edge stitch foot is that the blade (sometimes called the bar) on the blind hem foot extends from the front to the back of the foot, crossing the needle opening at 90 degrees. Because the bar is centered on the foot, there will be a little curve in it as it crosses the needle opening to allow you to center your needle. The bar is there so that when you sew a blind hem stitch, the thread is raised slightly by that bar and keeps the resulting stitch from being too tight.
The edge stitch foot’s blade or bar does not cross the needle opening at all, stopping just before that point and giving your full access to the entire needle opening when deciding on your needle offset. Both feet work equally well for top-stitching because you’re using a straight stitch.
Before I got my current machine, I sewed on a basic Bernina 801 Sport for many years. It didn’t have that triple straight stitch and I didn’t own an edge stitch foot at that time, so I used my blind hem foot and a plain straight stitch for top-stitching with good results. I don’t recall ever trying to top-stitch around a zipper with that foot, though – not because it wouldn’t work, necessarily, but because it just didn’t occur to me not to use my zipper foot.
My current machine can do a 9mm stitch width, so my edge stitch foot is wider than the feet for my old machine, (maximum stitch width of 5mm) making the new one ideal for top-stitching some zipper applications in handbags. I like it because one half of the foot rides on top of the zipper teeth as you saw in the post, working to keep the whole thing more stable. But the truth is that I stumbled onto the idea by accident one day when I forgot to change from the edge stitch foot to the zipper foot and realized it was going to be a perfect fit. I have never looked back.
I suspect that unless your foot’s width causes it to push the zipper aside as you stitch, it will work, too. I would play around with making a zipper opening with some scraps and a zipper you have lying around and see what happens! Hope it works!
I know exactly what you mean! The first time I noticed that difference I thought I was a day behind, too. It’s a little odd seeing the effect of global time zones in this way!
Yay! Glad to hear it worked well for you! What fabric do you you use for your cleaning cloths? Are you recycling old toweling or are you making them from new fabric? Something else??? Just curious!
Kristen, overlock thread is to weak for the Juki.
Overlock threads aren’t made as strong as sewing threads since they don’t really have to withstand any stress. Thats why it keeos breaking on the Juki..the Juki sews to fast for the thread.
Use a good polyester thread on your Juki, & you shouldn’t have any trouble 🙂
Save the overlock thred fir the overlocker 🙂
Which Bernina do you have, if I’m allowed to ask ??
I’m very happy to share about my new machine, Liz! I have never been a quilter, but I want to learn. When I decided it was time to buy a new machine, I ended up with a Bernina 770QE thinking I’d just jump in with both feet. Instead, I have gotten much deeper into bag making, which is my first love. I had tried to talk myself into a more basic machine, but my husband of 34 years finally told me to just buy the one I wanted because he thought I deserved it. Who was I to argue? I do love my new machine, and one bonus has been that my four-year-old grandson loves to watch me sew. Lol! I can’t argue with that either!
Thanks, Dianna, that’s very helpful – I will definitely be experimenting with a zipper, as that is another area where I know I could to do better – I love learning new things to improve my sewing skills!
I guess this is the first post with so many comments. Great work indeed.
Yes it was the first post Ritika…..unfortunately it might be the last as Dianna is now busy with work commitments.
Wow,wow,wow only just found this post and soooo much info – thank you all. UK Sue
Thanks for stopping by! Yes, Dianna’s post is AWESOME! 🙂
Thank you Dianna for the great tips. I have a fairly new Janome Skyline with a blind hem foot included and have yet to use it for anything. I will give it a try soon. I am hoping you can shed some light on my current top stitching challenge. I am trying to achieve beautiful topstitching results while topstitching on vinyl trimmed purses using Guttermann topstitching thread. I am not able to achieve good thread tension on the under side even after increasing the top tension from the universal setting of #5 to the highest #9. I am using a leather needle and now a teflon foot
Any suggestions ? Do do you think there Is hope or should I assume that great topstitching results on vinyl can best be achieved using an industrial machine?
Hi Susan…..I know Dianna has been busy with work so may not see this post for a while……You could try a universal needle……I find that works better for me with my Bernina….whereas my Pfaff likes the leather needles….. I know this may seem obvious BUT have you checked that you have both top and bottom threaded correctly? Also make sure you lengthen your stitches more when topstitching vinyl as apposed to fabrics….I use at least 4.00 on my Bernina…. Hope this helps!
Thanks so very much for the blog post on top-stitching! I too am a Bernina girl and use these same techniques. It’s really good to know I’m doing it the way other professionals (I’m definitely not in that class as yet) do it! Hope you are able to continue this very worthwhile endeavor of sharing tips with us!
I know this is an older blog, but these are good tips 🙂
…
I am interested, even now, in knowing for what purpose you use the foam board and clamps!!
Thank you so much for your time. I have been sewing for years, although I have learned, even through your post here that you can still learn new tricks. 😁 .I can’t wait to read your next blog post .
Try a longer stitch length. I make canvas bags and I love a a flat felled seem (like jeans) to reinforce the seam when I can make it work with the pattern. when a flat felled seam won’t work I use a over the edge stitch (it looks a bit like the stitch a serger makes) or a wide but close zigzag on the inside of the seam were the lining will cover it. I tend to put a lot of heavy things like books in my bags.
I forgot to mention, I use the over edge stitch or zig zig after I seam the pieces together and I make sure they are close to, but don’t cross into, my seam line.
Typepad HTML Email
I would like to know that too! LOL Unfortunately personal circumstances meant Diana has not been able to complete more posts.
Typepad HTML Email
Thanks Kerrie…..I do hope that at some point Diana can continue her posts for us BUT unfortunately at the moment they are on the back burner.
Great suggestions Lori, thank you!
I have a foot like that but never thought to use it, I will now. Thanks
Typepad HTML Email
Hi Susan….yes I think many people are in the same position but once you start using it you won’t look back!
😊
This has been a real eye opener. I have been making bags for about 5 years and top stitching and zippers are my biggest headache.
Thanks for the tip.
Ellen by Design Custom Embroidery
Typepad HTML Email
Glad you enjoyed it!
😊
I have a Juki straight stitch machine. The needle position is not adjustable. So that rules out the edge stitch foot and the triple stitch. I can still use the frixion pens and the embroidery thread. Any other ideas for keeping the line straight? Thanks!
Hi Susan…..I use compensating feet on my Juki 2010QE and find they work really well. Hope this helps!
Thank you for this post. I have a Janome 6600. I have blind hem foot and the triple stitch – which I have used but not for top stitching. I will be trying it very soon. I wondered what embroidery thread you recommended. I use Madeira thread on my embroidery machine. Would this be ok for top stitching? Cheers
Thank you so much for this post and new ideas on using one of my favorite feet, the Bernina edge-stitch foot I never thought to use it on the zipper window. Excellent application!
Typepad HTML Email
Glad you found this useful Angela!
😊
I just bought my 1st pocketbook pattern
recently.
These tips will have me off to a great start.
Hope to see more in the future from you when
your not so busy.
Thanks for sharing.
Typepad HTML Email
Thanks for stopping by Pat!
Your tips have been so helpful to me; thank you? I have a question: when you are topstitching, and the beginning and end of a row will NOT be enclosed in a seam, how do you clip or bury the thread ends so that it is attractive? Thanks!
I pull the top thread to the back, then tie a tiny knot with both threads. Then using a sewing needle I thread the two tails onto it and enter the fabric close to the knot, going between my layers for as far as I can before exiting, then pulling gently on the threads to sink the knot below the surface…..Snip the threads as close to the surface exit point so the ends also disapear between the layers. I hope this makes sense! x
That makes perfect sense, and thank you so much for your quick answer!
Wow this is a very detail work I wonder how long it takes to learn.
Typepad HTML Email
Practice makes perfect! But with a little bit of persistence it doesn’t take long to learn at all!
SUPER helpful information! Thank you for posting. I will be saving this link for sure!!
So glad you have found the tips useful Katrina! Thanks for stopping by.
Oh wow just saw this and am going to practise
Christine Frixion Pens need to be added to the website!
You can grab Frixion pens at the supermarket! 🙂